B18C2 Swap


About time I modified the daily, needs more VTEC!

My EG5 Civic originally came with a D16Y1 (VTEC) attached to an automatic gearbox. And recently it's been overheating a lot, I suspect the water pump needs replacing as the thermostat and radiator are in great condition.

The engine I have going into the car is an Australian delivered B18C2 that came out of a Integra VTi-R, and the gearbox was originally from a B16A2. I believe it has shorter ratios than the B18C2 engine.

Gave the valve cover a thorough clean and than paint.




The engine also received a new water pump, sump gasket, head gasket and a whole bunch of new bits.


Next up was the wiring... The engine has a mixture of OBD2 and OBD1 parts, as well as some JDM bits but Australian OBD1 ECU. So I had to modify the harness a bit to get everything to work.

Wiring was stripped back and tagged.


Harness was than dummy fitted. I wanted to do a harness from scratch, but budget and time restraints didn't allow for it, maybe I'll do one later for fun.


For some reason, the engine had ODB2 injectors. So I made a custom injector harness and separated it from the main engine harness. The harness and ECU are wired for a VTEC Pressure Switch but the engine didn't have one, so that had to be deleted by running the pressure switch wire directly to the VTEC Solenoid wire.



Had to fix the alternator plug wiring too... Damn workshops doing dodgy wiring.


And the engine removal starts... More updates next post. I also removed the dash as I have to replace the automatic pedal box with a manual one, and some wiring things had to be done too. Dash doesn't have to be removed, but only takes 20mins and makes everything so much easier.


The B18C2 swap requires running a few extra wires to the ECU from the shock tower connectors, I just fed these through this grommet.


Since I have a few spare Honda harnesses to use, I de-pinned them to use in my car. Takes a bit more effort, but produces a better end product. O2 wire goes to pin A6, Knock goes to D3, Alternator Control to A16, and IAB to A17.


Next part of the wiring involved running the IAB wire and reverse switch. Again this could be done pretty quick but I decided to take a bit more time and make it neat. Everything can be accessed from the connector shown below, it's under the dash behind the fuse box.


The light green and yellow wire (two top wires) are for the solenoids in the automatic gearbox, but in manual cars they are the reverse switch wires. Both these wires goto the ECU at position A17 and A19, I just de-pinned these and they'll be wired to the reverse switch wires found in the centre console which was used by the automatic shifter.

The red wire (directly under the white/blue wire) was added and wired to the ECU pin A17 for the IAB.

That's all for now, more updates soon!

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