OK! I'm excited for my new Hazard Switches kit 🙂
Item can be purchased below, use the shopping cart if you're in Australia, or use the PayPal button below (and in the product description) if you're located outside of Australia. Prices are in Australian Dollars and shipping is built into the price.
Now the first job before installing your new Hazard Switches is to remove the tombstone. I won't go into this step because there are dozens of tutorials that already exist online. The YouTube video below is pretty good.
This is how you'll receive the kit, comes with the "plug & play" harness, switches, panels and brand new omgpham.com sticker.
Take note of the labelled bags and the markings on the face plate and switches.
Install the switch marked "R" in the top position of the face plate, and switch marked "B" goes in the bottom position. Switch locations and orientation are marked on the back of the face plate.
Once the switches are in, you can go ahead and install the backing plate and carefully tighten the nuts until finger tight, making sure the switches and face plate are in position. Once the nuts are finger tight, grip the switch housing and rotate counter-clockwise to further tighten down the switches.
The connector labelled "R" plugs into the top position, and connector labelled "B" goes into the bottom switch.
And this connector plugs into the factory wiring.
The MX-5's interior is known for it's minimalist nature, and with that comes the poorly lit interior. Vlad from Jass Performance has come up with a neat solution and below is my installation, with a slight difference.
The kit comes supplied with instructions and is plug and play.
Firstly, you'll need to remove the visor and roof latch. This'll allow you to mount the light and tuck the wires away.
The passenger and driver side lights mounted up and wires tucked away. It's a little bit tricky to do, try have someone else around to help out.
The black wire has a small ring terminal which screws into your existing courtesy light, this just allows it to turn on with the doors and still give you the ability to switch them on/off whenever you please. My install is a little different to the standard instructions, I've added a plug and soldered the red wire directly to the factory light. So please note that soldering is NOT required.
And a quick photo to show how much coverage it has. Photo was taken without flash and in complete darkness.
Second photo below was taken using a higher ISO setting on the camera, again no flash and in complete darkness.
This project has been on the back burner for awhile, but finally ready for testing. Everything hasn't gone exactly to plan, so far the circuit only works with the factory switches and not my Centre Console Delete Kit.
The plan is to make a simple plug-and-play kit that allows both windows to go up/down automatically. I realise that the JDM NA8s came with automatic driver side window from factory, and I will be making kits available for single window applications as well as both windows.
Quick demo video here:
Ignore my slow windows, the sliders need a clean 😛
One click initiates automatic up/down, clicking the switch in opposite direction stops the automatic function. Holding the switch for 2secs overrides into manual mode.
This is the little circuit, will be cased up etc when done.
Testing in my car 🙂
Just a quick update, I've installed a boot light and it's amazing! Please excuse the image quality, they were all taken using my phone.
Install doesn't take very long and everything is plug-and-play. Kit comes with a LED mounted on a stainless steel bracket, boot switch and wiring harness.
Boot Light Kit - http://omgpham.com/store/interior/boot-light-kit
Photo taken without flash at 9PM.
I also removed my tombstone to give it a quick coat of Plasti-Dip, the surface was a bit too rubbery/grippy for my liking so I gave it a quick wipe with some interior detailing products. Worked out very well 🙂
I finished up my design to relocate the power window switches after deleting the centre console. The switches are automotive grade and will include wiring harness using crimped connections. A revised template for the carpet will also be included and will cover up the tunnel and fuel/boot release levers. The panel is CNC laser cut from 1.6mm thick stainless-steel sheet and all supplied hardware will be stainless-steel too.
Testing so far has been very good, functions like factory (no auto feature), and I find it easier to reach than the factory location for the switches.
Centre Console Delete Kit now available:
Below are some photos of the first prototype.
I now stock TSI kits, Turn Signal Intake. Replaces the factory light assembly, and provides a good source of cold air into the engine bay. The vents have both LED parker and indicator lights.
Not too bad hey!
Andrew literally pulled this out of the box and slapped it onto his car within 5 minutes, just a quick test fit. I think most can agree that it looks insanely good! Andrew's Ducktail Boot Lid is the fibreglass version with black gel-coat.
Can't wait for photos after it's been painted 😀
Fibreglass - $380
Carbon Fibre - $540
Carbon Kevlar - $590
Just some quick photos of the COPs Bracket installed on my engine, I gave it a quick coat of satin black enamel paint too. Came out great and really suits my painted valve cover.
Now with the COPs bolted onto the bracket.
This is a install walk-through of the Low-Profile Headlight Kit. It's quite straight forward to get everything bolted into the car, but it does take a bit of time to make minor adjustments so that both headlights are level with each other.
The supplied instructions can be found below, please use it together with this guide:
Before you start, have your headlights popped up than remove the retractor fuse/relay.
1. Remove the factory headlight and it's frame. This consists of 3 small screws, 2 large screws and a spring.
2. Using a pen, outline the brackets holding the headlight lid to the assemble. This will be used as a guide when you re-assemble.
3. Using a 14mm spanner, remove the nut and spring washer that holds the control arm to the retractor motor.
4. Remove the bolts/nuts on both sides of the assembly, this is the pivot point of the headlight assembly.
5. Remove entire headlight assembly from the car.
6. Remove the control arm from the assembly, carefully pry it evenly at the ball joint.
7. Drill two 6mm holes for the new control arm bracket. The position of the bracket is crucial, please refer to the manual for precise location. Make sure they are positioned identical in each headlight assembly.
8. Use one of the original factory screws, slip the supplied washer and spring onto the screw. Attach to the adapter frame and screw into bottom plastic clip.
9. Top holes of the frame are attached to the assembly using the supplied counter-sunk screws, washer, spring and nut.
10. Attach the Hella lense to the frame using the self tapping screws.
11. Loosen the locking nut and remove the factory stopper, install the supplied curved stopper.
12. Re-install the assembly into the car, plug headlight cable back in.
13. Loosen the bottom stopper, set the top stopper temporarily down.
14. With the retractor motor in the UP position, attach the control arm to the retractor motor shaft. Make sure the control arm is as straight as possible and the assembly is in the UP position too. Tighten the nut just enough so that you can do some tests by popping the headlights up and down a few times and make sure that the headlight is lifted to the highest point. Tighten the nut when done.
15. With the headlight up, set the top stopper so it just pushes against the assembly. With the headlights in the down position, set the bottom stopper so it just pushes back against the assembly. In both up/down positions, there should be very little movement, this ensures that the assembly will not bounce around whether the lights are up or down.
16. Repeat the instructions for the other side, and make minor adjustments to ensure both headlight heights are equal.
17. Adjustments are made using the control arm, remove it from the retractor motor shaft to do so. Lengthening the control arm will raise the headlight, shortening the control arm will lower the height.
18. You can now install the headlight lid and the side panels, the outer panel uses 1 short screw towards the back and the front uses a long screw with the supplied plastic spacer. Inner panels uses 2 short screws, the front screw uses a washer as a spacer.
19. Aligning the beam is done using the 2 top screws on the lense housing, black plastic surround. These screws allow adjustments for vertical and horizontal alignment. For any reason you need more vertical alignment, the bottom screw that holds the adapter bracket to the assembly can be adjust to raise/lower the lense.
20. Enjoy your new low-profile headlights!
So if the offset bracket isn't your thing, and you're still having issues with the factory number plate bracket. The center mounted version is now available!
Mazda's factory number plate bracket simply sucks... It's weak and always in the way, every one of us has experienced walking into it and bending it into the front bar causing damage. The bracket is made from aluminium plate that has been laser cut and CNC folded. Everything bolts up the standard location but is much stronger so you'll never have issues with it scratching your bumper. All hardware is supplied.
Will have install photos once my car is back together.
All stock is located in Brisbane for immediate dispatch.
Price includes delivery Australia wide by courier.