Engine Head Assembly

So last couple of days I started to re-assemble my engine with some help from friends.  Not bad timing since I was due for my 5000km service anyway =)

Since I had to replace my gasket, I decided to spend a little extra and went with a Tomei 1.2mm head gasket and ARP head studs. A good upgrade because the factory gasket and head bolts don't like running high boost. So now I can run higher boost! Exciting for me.

Read more after the break...

Sent my head out to Chilton Engineering, they're an awesome bunch of guys that do great engine machining. Price was heaps cheaper then their competition and turn-around time was 3 hours. They re-surfaced my head so that the new Tomei gasket would not change my overall compression ratio, and they also performed the usual tests to make sure my head was 100%. The engine block surface had to be prep'ed for the new gasket, this involved me carefully cleaning the head with a few razor blades, and then using a 3M Scotch Brite disc on an air tool. The 3M disc is designed for aluminium so it isn't too abrasive and will leave the surface clean and polished.

ARP head studs were used, instructions say to install the studs into the block hand tight. The threads, washers and nuts have to be lubricated with the supplied ARP assembly lubricant. This must be used so that the torque procedures stay true. Before installing the Tomei head gasket, I was advised to give it a few coats of Hylomar (blue stuff). It helps seal the gasket if there are any imperfections on the block/head surface. You basically spray it on and let it air for a few minutes before placing it on the block.

Engine head back on!!!!

Now the fun part... NOT! So once the head was on, we started to installing the nuts. Just followed the service manual's torque sequence, but using ARP's instructions for the actual torque values. We did it in four steps:

  1. Hand tight
  2. 25ft/lbs
  3. 55ft/lbs
  4. 85ft/lbs

Then after doing 500kms, check the torque to make sure they are still within specs. Re-torque if necessary.

The next morning I started to install the rest of the head components, lifters, rocker arms, etc...

Before installing the shims, I gave everything a coat of new engine oil. Just to make sure everything is lubricated before the first crank.

I then proceeded to install the hydraulic lifters/lashers. But before doing so, it's a good idea to bleed all the air out of them. You basically just keep them upright in a container full of fresh engine oil and plunge it until you stop seeing air bubbles. Once the lifters were in, the rocker arm sits right on top of it all.

And a photo of most of it all in. Some parts are arriving tomorrow so should hopefully finish it all soon.

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  1. pham u dont wanna do my car after your done do ya? the mechanic is makin me wait 3 weeks 🙁

  2. hahaha hell no! i didn’t even want to do this job on my own car, too mush stress about messing it up!

  3. lols its fucked ay. it was meant to be ready today to pick up n i went in n the engine was like in 4 diff places, recons its gonna be another week stupid German parts

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