So here we are, all done.. All those early mornings before work and late nights after work building the engine harness and tucking the body wiring. Pretty happy overall with the finish product, just a few changes I will make later. Just want to get the car running for now.
The 3D printed plate will be replaced with a laser cut stainless steel piece.
Engine harness complete!
Dummy fitted the intake so I could cut the injector wiring to length.
The start of the ECU side of the engine harness. All this is being recycled from the previous wiring setup. So handy having everything done with Deutsch connectors.
Terminating the shielded wires for the crank, cam and TPS sensors.
The washer bottle has been relocated to under the guard, I think it should clear everything on full lock and compression. It's a bit awkward to refill, but probably only needs to be topped up once a year. This washer bottle is from a Holden HQ I believe.
OK, a decent update. Lot's of photos.
Because I'm planning to use bulkhead connectors on the firewall for the engine harness, I drew up this plate to mount the connectors. It allows easy disassembly if any changes need to be made or replacing connectors etc. Because I'm recycling parts for this section, the connectors used are Deutsch 12-way DT and Deutsch 31-way HDP.
Had it 3D printed so I could start the wiring while I wait for the real thing to get laser cut from stainless steel.
Headlight assemblies in.
Brake booster, clutch master and radiator in.
Installed these Garage Star Fender Braces too. Pretty straight forward, comes with all new stainless steel bolts.
Because I had the valve cover sandblasted and painted, all the baffles need to be removed so the blast media can be cleaned out. Garage Star machined stainless steel valve cover bolts. I've got a whole engine bay dress up bolt kit to go on too.
Started on the body wiring tuck, wires are coming out of the side behind the front guards. This has been drilled, painted and sealed to keep moisture out.
Slowly cleaning it up and routing. I've used loom tubing for exterior sections, they provide more protection than just braided sleeving alone.
The wires re-enter the body from the side, drilled a 24mm hole and than sealed any bare metal. Ideally I should have done all the cutting/drilling before paint, lesson learned. I also picked up these wiring grommets from Clark Rubber.
I've had to make a few extensions to tuck the body wiring. Instead of soldering, I've been using these uninsulated butt-splice crimps and than heat-shrinking over it.
Using a factory hole to tuck the wiper motor wiring. I think the hole is normally used for the washer hose, but I'm relocating the washer bottle... More details on that later.
These exposed wires have been wrapped and loom tubed now. Interior sections are covered in a braided sleeving with heat-shrink on the ends.
The headlight assemblies back in, most of the wires are out of sight.
The dual horns installed, and the body harness is done!
Just so everyone knows, this part of the build is on a strict on budget, won't be MIL Spec or anything like that. Every part was either given to me for free or simply re-used from my old harness. It'll do for now, and I'll look into doing a concentric twisted MIL Spec harness later.
Below is the wiring for the coils, it is being terminated into a Deutsch 12-way DT connector. This connector contains wiring for the coil triggers (x4), coil power (x4) and the ECU grounds (x4).
For shielded wires (TPS, crank and cam sensors), what I did was strip the cable further back and unbraided the shield. I than twisted it up and heat-shrinked. It gets terminated into the bulk-head connector and continues onto the other side.
Finished the crank and cam sensors. This is all a dry fit, once I have it mostly sorted, the wires will be sleeved and heat-shrinked.
To tuck the starter and charge wires, I had to a slight extraction and feed them through the tunnel.
So my ITB manifold is shit... The factory Toyota manifold has two dowels per throttle body to locate everything into perfect alignment. If the throttle bodies aren't correctly aligned than they don't open equally no matter how many linkage adjustments are made, not great at all!
Below is my solution. I mounted my throttle bodies to the Toyota manifold, adjust everything and confirm their alignment. I than bolt the tops of the throttle bodies to a thick plate of steel. The throttle bodies are removed from the Toyota manifold and transferred to my Techno Toy Tuning manifold. DONE! Everything is spot on now.
Many late nights...
Happy day! Car has been towed back home and first thing we did was remove all the front panels 🙂 Storing them in a spare bedroom for now, don't want to scratch anything during assembly.
Colour is Audi's Aviator Grey.
The entire engine bay was covered in blankets during the engine install.
Colour looks amazing in sunlight, the Audi paint code has a bit of pearl through it but can only be seen in direct sunlight.
The freshly powder coated radiator and sway-bar brackets fitted up with new bolts.
A quick mock up panel for the engine harness Deutsch bulkhead connectors.
I had the front lip painted gloss black, will be interesting to see how well it holds up from all the abuse it cops 😛
Awesome day today!
Most of the panels are secured onto the body now but only a few things have been gapped properly. I just really wanted the panels back on so they could be towed home securely on the body instead of strapped down behind a ute.
The flow coat came out amazing! The guys at J&D Quality Smash Repairs usually give it a polish too, but I figure it would be best to do that after I finish assembly. A few little extra bits need to painted and both windscreens need to be fitted up, but that's about it and I should have the car back mid-next week.
A pretty cool Lotus Elise was in the shop too 🙂
Installed the boot lid, rear bar and than rear garnish. These panels have been gapped properly.
Using brand new bolts and flanged nuts with washers wherever I can.
New rubbers 🙂
The doors/rocker panel have had their rock-guard removed and everything smoothed out. I've kept the black section though, it's gloss black and will go well with the lips/sideskirts that will also be gloss black.
Bonnet and front guards are on but not gapped yet. These panels will be removed as soon as I get the car back though, keep them safe while I get the engine and wiring done.
Starting to look something like a car now!
Paint has cured and the boys at J&D Quality Smash got straight onto it. The first coats of clear were blocked flat, weird seeing the car in a matte finish. Looks pretty cool but it would be a pain to keep it in good condition, so yeah nah.
The guys will be painting the rocker panels black and a couple more coats of clear will go over everything.
Not much else to say, so here are the photos I took today.
OK! We're reaching towards the end now, base and clear coats are on every panel now. Next will be to paint the black areas, this will include: front and rear lips, side skirts, front quarter window frame, and the rocker panels. Everything will need to be fully cured before the guys block/sand everything flat. Than comes the flow coat...
The panels and doors are painted first. The guards and bonnet are secured on the mounting frame, this improves the overall finish by increasing the paint consistency from panel to panel.
Doors and rear bar. The front quarter window frames are masked off because they'll be painted black later.
Base and clear coats.
Front and rear bars.
Doors, hardtop and boot lid.
And the engine bay! It's painted with Audi's Aviator Grey, I think it goes well with the theme of my car. A lot of people ask me why I didn't shave the bay, and it's simply because I prefer the look of the standard bay. Has more character 🙂
So shiny and bright!
The money shot.
Rest of the other parts sitting in storage to fully cure.
This will be the last paint-prep update! All panels have primer and sanded flat ready for base/clear coats.
My rear garnish used to be black, going back to white this time around. The shop also fixed up my radiator support, which was all hacked up by the previous owner.
Boot lid all prepped, it was initially in really bad shape. The frame was pulling down the outer skin and causing a lot of low spots. So the glue between the frame and outer skin was removed to allow everything to be flat, new adhesive will be applied.
Front and rear bars done.
Bonnet and hardtop.
I also ordered brand new rubbers from Mazda 🙂
While the engine was out of the car, I removed my built head and sent it off for a quick check-over. Unfortunately for me, I was told that all the intake valves were damaged, the likely cause being poor air filtration (will expand on this at a later stage). So all intake valves were replaced, and decided to swap some new camshafts in.
Head all freshened up and the new billet camshafts (intake & exhaust).
The lifter bores had to be heavily modified for the new camshafts.
Re-built bottom end and genuine Mazda head gasket. Deck was surfaced, bores re-honed, and new bearings/rings.
The valve train fitted and ready to be degreed.
Using the "Lift @ TDC" method, basically the amount of lift on the camshafts at TDC on the overlap stroke.
All degreed, but I'll go through the whole process again to double check. I did the measuring off cylinder no. 4 lobes at TDC, I'll do it again measuring off cylinder no. 1.
Been stuck in bed with the cold most of this week, so spent my time doing a few small jobs for the Mazda.
First off I sanded my APR carbon fibre mirrors so that they could be sprayed with a clear coat, the original finish was ageing pretty bad. I used a combination of 400, 600 and 800 grit sand paper
Gave the transmission a quick clean and replaced the front seal and gasket on that front cover.
Couple weeks ago I bought myself a dial gauge and mount, decided I'll degree the camshafts myself this time around. And I have a degree wheel I purchased a few years back. Since I wasn't able to do much work today, I decided to have a play around with the tools 🙂
Mounted the degree wheel and dial gauge set up with the magnetic mount.
A quick exercise was to find true Top-Dead-Centre. I'll do it using the piston-stop-method but with a dial gauge instead of a piston stop tool. Basically.... on the upstroke to TDC, roughly 10mm before it reachs TDC, take note of the dial gauge measurement and the reading on your degree wheel in reference to a single point. Than take it past TDC and on the downstrok stop as soon as you reach the same measurement on your dial gauge, now take note of the degree on your degree wheel.
Mine happen to be 180deg and 108deg. To calculate the true TDC, simply take the average of those two readings. This happens to be 144deg on my degree wheel. From that you can loosen the degree wheel and zero it with your marker line.
Do this a few time to double and triple check your work, and just a quick visual inspection to confirm.
Hell yeah another update! The guys finished all the repairs and high build primer has been applied. This will need to cure for a few days to let the solvents evaporate. So about mid next week they'll start blocking the primer to get everything flat and make sure there are no imperfections.
Both doors, I had them remove the factory "stone guard".
So happy seeing the car in primer, a sign of progress 🙂
The guys at the shop made the decision to paint the door jams too.
The area just in front of the boot had a lot of dents, probably from dropping the hardtop.
Repairs to a rusted area in the pillar.
Another before and after of rust repairs.