For the last week I've been slowly working on the engine wiring. My goal wasn't to tuck anything, but more of a general clean up and make it look neat and easy to access.
Wiring was made from scratch, straight to the Megasquirt and power board. I used brand new connectors/terminals and Deutsch plugs whenever I could.
The air filters and hose clamps will be replaced with better parts very soon.
Dropped my engine off last week at the Auto Xperts, they did an excellent job and degreed my cams to the recommend specs. Final adjustments will be made on the dyno.
Picked her up this morning and have been on it since than.
After the crank bolt was correctly torqued, I started on assembling the timing cover and ITBs.
Some close-ups of stuff.
Lightened flywheel and clutch going in.
Engine going back in 😀
So big update! I finally got my built head 😀
- 2001 NB6 head
- Intake camshaft - 280deg 10.5mm lift
- Exhaust camshaft - 270deg 9.4mm lift
- Solid lifters
- Oversized valves
- Stronger valve springs
- Fully reconditioned
- Extensive porting, de-shrouding etc...
- Port matched
Intake camshaft is a custom billet profile, and the exhaust is a custom regrind.
Haven't had too much time to work on it, but things will move fast next week.
I bolted the intake gasket to the manifold and port matched it using my Dremel, nothing too exciting 😛
Update time! Head isn't finished yet so I've been doing a few odd jobs here and there.
One thing I did was start on the brake prop valve relocation. It's not necessary but does give me extra space for the velocity stacks, might be able to increase it's length later down the track too. So I picked up some angle aluminium plate for $5 and started cutting that up.
Here is the capacitor used for the COPs install, it's needed because the battery is in the boot and can cause voltage drops when the coils fire. The capacitor helps by storing a reserve of power and eliminates any voltage drop. Well that's what I think it does =P
Ordered these velocity stack booties from Outerwears, quality seems good but I'm not 100% sure they will provide enough filtering. So might experiment with some foam as well.
My mate recently had some of these awesome stickers made up, it's perfect for all of us who run ITBs. I've got them on my car now, just gotta wait till the real ITBs are installed haha!
Below is Ian's ITB Daihatsu Mira rocking the stickers. Three stickers because 3-cylinder 😀
In my previous update I posted up about reassembling my ITBs. I had to use new screws to hold the throttle plates as the old ones were drilled out, they were replaced with socket cap screws but I was recommended to use something with a smaller profile head. I've now replaced the screws with button head socket screws.
Spent some time over the weekend dialing up the ITB adjustment screws, still a few things to sort out and hopefully they won't cause issues down the track.
Well word got out that I was in possession of an amazing device (Synchometer), so Ian dropped by with his Daihatsu Mira Van to sync his ITBs. I've never used a Synchometer or played with ITBs before so it was a good experience.
It's a slightly tedious process because adjustments on one throttle body will affect the others, so it can take a few goes to get it right. Once the ITBs are synced though, the idle speed needs to be adjusted too, with Ian's car the idle ended up being higher.