Dropped my engine off last week at the Auto Xperts, they did an excellent job and degreed my cams to the recommend specs. Final adjustments will be made on the dyno.
Picked her up this morning and have been on it since than.
After the crank bolt was correctly torqued, I started on assembling the timing cover and ITBs.
Some close-ups of stuff.
Lightened flywheel and clutch going in.
Engine going back in 😀
So big update! I finally got my built head 😀
- 2001 NB6 head
- Intake camshaft - 280deg 10.5mm lift
- Exhaust camshaft - 270deg 9.4mm lift
- Solid lifters
- Oversized valves
- Stronger valve springs
- Fully reconditioned
- Extensive porting, de-shrouding etc...
- Port matched
Intake camshaft is a custom billet profile, and the exhaust is a custom regrind.
Haven't had too much time to work on it, but things will move fast next week.
I bolted the intake gasket to the manifold and port matched it using my Dremel, nothing too exciting 😛
Update time! Head isn't finished yet so I've been doing a few odd jobs here and there.
One thing I did was start on the brake prop valve relocation. It's not necessary but does give me extra space for the velocity stacks, might be able to increase it's length later down the track too. So I picked up some angle aluminium plate for $5 and started cutting that up.
Here is the capacitor used for the COPs install, it's needed because the battery is in the boot and can cause voltage drops when the coils fire. The capacitor helps by storing a reserve of power and eliminates any voltage drop. Well that's what I think it does =P
Ordered these velocity stack booties from Outerwears, quality seems good but I'm not 100% sure they will provide enough filtering. So might experiment with some foam as well.
^^ True story...
I've been working on a few small things on the car, but haven't completed any of the jobs so won't post up any photos. I have bought some new parts though =)
First up is a new lightened chrome-moly flywheel that weighs 4kg, which is less than half the weigh of the stock one. I actually had a few lightened 1.8L flywheels, but I didn't want to replace my clutch so sourced a 1.6L flywheel instead.
Next up is my Toda adjustable cam pulleys, these were sourced direct from Japan. They'll be dialed up with my billet camshafts by an engine builder.
This is the intake cam pulley, it's slightly different from most other adjustable cam pulleys because it has the three little trigger knobs for the hall effect cam sensor. I believe this type of cam pulley is required for engines from 99 onwards?
The next part was also ordered direct from Japan, it's a KG Works stainless steel tombstone. It comes with the full face plate, hazard/retractor buttons, vent rings, HVAC face plate and gear surround.
My mate recently had some of these awesome stickers made up, it's perfect for all of us who run ITBs. I've got them on my car now, just gotta wait till the real ITBs are installed haha!
Below is Ian's ITB Daihatsu Mira rocking the stickers. Three stickers because 3-cylinder 😀
Started pulling apart my car today, the head is being removed so I can get that ported. The AC, all wiring, intake, strut brace and fuse box will be removed to make way for my custom tucked wiring harness.
I was planning to port it myself but have decided to send it down to Warren Heath Performance down in Melbourne. The head will received an extensive porting job as well as larger oversized valves, stronger valve springs and re-shimmed solid lifters. The camshaft going in will be 280degree duration and 10.5mm lift.
Didn't get too much done today but photos below.
My new fuel rail finally arrived, had to replace the M-Tuned rail because it had clearance issues with the fuel rail bracket. And I was able to get myself a B6 cylinder head for free. This allows me to test fit all the parts and I can work on the fuel lines and wiring while my NB6 head is away for porting and cams.
Also did a quick test fit of the ITBs to see if there are any issues that need to be sorted out.
In my previous update I posted up about reassembling my ITBs. I had to use new screws to hold the throttle plates as the old ones were drilled out, they were replaced with socket cap screws but I was recommended to use something with a smaller profile head. I've now replaced the screws with button head socket screws.
Spent some time over the weekend dialing up the ITB adjustment screws, still a few things to sort out and hopefully they won't cause issues down the track.
Well word got out that I was in possession of an amazing device (Synchometer), so Ian dropped by with his Daihatsu Mira Van to sync his ITBs. I've never used a Synchometer or played with ITBs before so it was a good experience.
It's a slightly tedious process because adjustments on one throttle body will affect the others, so it can take a few goes to get it right. Once the ITBs are synced though, the idle speed needs to be adjusted too, with Ian's car the idle ended up being higher.
I picked up a Synchrometer from a local Motorsport business, Dirt Devil Ind., just located 30mins from Brisbane. It's used to tune/sync ITBs or carburetors for a smoother idle and acceleration. It's not really necessary but why not hey?
It works by measuring air flow through the trumpet (velocity stacks). The synchrometer has a tapered rubber tip that inserts into the ITB opening, than using the bypass adjust screw to set each throttle body for the right amount of air flow at idle.