Dropped my engine off last week at the Auto Xperts, they did an excellent job and degreed my cams to the recommend specs. Final adjustments will be made on the dyno.
Picked her up this morning and have been on it since than.
After the crank bolt was correctly torqued, I started on assembling the timing cover and ITBs.
Some close-ups of stuff.
Lightened flywheel and clutch going in.
Engine going back in 😀
Update time! Head isn't finished yet so I've been doing a few odd jobs here and there.
One thing I did was start on the brake prop valve relocation. It's not necessary but does give me extra space for the velocity stacks, might be able to increase it's length later down the track too. So I picked up some angle aluminium plate for $5 and started cutting that up.
Here is the capacitor used for the COPs install, it's needed because the battery is in the boot and can cause voltage drops when the coils fire. The capacitor helps by storing a reserve of power and eliminates any voltage drop. Well that's what I think it does =P
Ordered these velocity stack booties from Outerwears, quality seems good but I'm not 100% sure they will provide enough filtering. So might experiment with some foam as well.
My mate recently had some of these awesome stickers made up, it's perfect for all of us who run ITBs. I've got them on my car now, just gotta wait till the real ITBs are installed haha!
Below is Ian's ITB Daihatsu Mira rocking the stickers. Three stickers because 3-cylinder 😀
Started pulling apart my car today, the head is being removed so I can get that ported. The AC, all wiring, intake, strut brace and fuse box will be removed to make way for my custom tucked wiring harness.
I was planning to port it myself but have decided to send it down to Warren Heath Performance down in Melbourne. The head will received an extensive porting job as well as larger oversized valves, stronger valve springs and re-shimmed solid lifters. The camshaft going in will be 280degree duration and 10.5mm lift.
Didn't get too much done today but photos below.
My new fuel rail finally arrived, had to replace the M-Tuned rail because it had clearance issues with the fuel rail bracket. And I was able to get myself a B6 cylinder head for free. This allows me to test fit all the parts and I can work on the fuel lines and wiring while my NB6 head is away for porting and cams.
Also did a quick test fit of the ITBs to see if there are any issues that need to be sorted out.
In my previous update I posted up about reassembling my ITBs. I had to use new screws to hold the throttle plates as the old ones were drilled out, they were replaced with socket cap screws but I was recommended to use something with a smaller profile head. I've now replaced the screws with button head socket screws.
Spent some time over the weekend dialing up the ITB adjustment screws, still a few things to sort out and hopefully they won't cause issues down the track.
I picked up a Synchrometer from a local Motorsport business, Dirt Devil Ind., just located 30mins from Brisbane. It's used to tune/sync ITBs or carburetors for a smoother idle and acceleration. It's not really necessary but why not hey?
It works by measuring air flow through the trumpet (velocity stacks). The synchrometer has a tapered rubber tip that inserts into the ITB opening, than using the bypass adjust screw to set each throttle body for the right amount of air flow at idle.
So I'm still waiting for the paint to dry on the ITBs, going to be a long 7- days... But I couldn't wait so I did a dummy fit of the trumpets (velocity stacks) on the ITBs.
I'm so WET with excitement!