Last week Josh asked me to help him update the firmware on his DIYPNP Megasquirt ECU, he also needed a base map loaded. So he posted it from Melbourne to Brisbane and I got it early this week.
Josh purchased the ECU second hand off the forums, was told it was working (and I don't doubt that it was) but the surprises came when I opened up the case for a closer look... This is what I found:
- at least half of the solder joints throughout the board were beyond terrible
- about a dozen pins/legs had no solder at all
- the ends of wires were snapping as I was de-soldering
- a handful of lengthened wires which weren't heat-shrinked
- tape had fallen off one of the lengthened wires and fully exposed the connection against the metal case
- loose solder and component pins on the underside, could have easily causes short circuits
- component pins bent towards each other, more possibility of short circuits
Even if the ECU was working fine, I wouldn't be surprised it failed very quickly in a car environment (heat and vibrations).
So I fully stripped all the wiring off the board, re-soldered every joint, cleaned/removed all the flux, re-wired the connector board, updated firmware and loaded a base map.
Below are some before and after photos.
The wiring was a huge mess, lengthened wires and a lot of fatigued joints which eventually resulted in snapped connections. In the center of the photo you can see the joint that was exposed because tape fell off.
These next photos were taken after I re-worked the ECU.
My preference is to have the jumper wires on the component side because it places less strain on the wires, helps reduce any fatigue. It also allows easy view of the connections without removing the entire circuit board.
So my first attempt for the ECU mount was a failure, it sucked and was messy looking. This next mount attempt is so simple, not sure why I didn't think of it first. Checkout the photos below.
I've been dreading this part of the build, was never sure how I would do it and make it neat. But everything is coming together now and so I had to do something.
Because my custom fuse/relay panel sits where the ECU normally goes, I've had to install the ECU in the glove box. It's not a bad spot to put it, just my solution isn't "clean" for my liking.
I also decided to use the stock tombstone, goes much better with the rest of my interior. So the KG Works tombstone will be up for sale soon.
Update time! Head isn't finished yet so I've been doing a few odd jobs here and there.
One thing I did was start on the brake prop valve relocation. It's not necessary but does give me extra space for the velocity stacks, might be able to increase it's length later down the track too. So I picked up some angle aluminium plate for $5 and started cutting that up.
Here is the capacitor used for the COPs install, it's needed because the battery is in the boot and can cause voltage drops when the coils fire. The capacitor helps by storing a reserve of power and eliminates any voltage drop. Well that's what I think it does =P
Ordered these velocity stack booties from Outerwears, quality seems good but I'm not 100% sure they will provide enough filtering. So might experiment with some foam as well.
This is a going to be a big-ish update, lots of photos, so please click through to see the rest of the post.
I spent the last couple of days building my custom fuse/relay panel. I've been looking forward to this part of the build 😀
Small update... some wiring parts arrived and picked up a white board to help me scribble down wiring stuff. It's been pretty handy 😀
According to the MegaSquirt manual, it's a pretty good idea to shield the TPS and trigger wires. So have been on the search for a flexible 2-core shielded cable, ended up deciding on a microphone cable from JayCar (part no. WB1530).
Terminated the shielding into it's own BLACK wire, this will grounded at the ECU end and left floating on the sensor end. The BLUE wire will be used for sensor return and the WHITE for sensor ground. The +5V/+12V wire will be run externally to the shield.
Not much has been happening but some updates for the build so far.
I received my first batch of Brake Cylinder Braces, so took some photos of what it looks like installed. It's too hard to take photos of the install, so will be doing it on a bare chassis in a few weeks.
I've also decided to ditch the old style CAS and go with dedicated crank and cam angle sensors. They're used in later model BP4W engines as well as NB6 engines.
Started my ECU harness too. Re-used the ECU connectors and just de-pinned the terminals so I could solder new wires on. Was a tedious process but well worth it, sensors/injectors/coils connectors will be installed later.
Picked up this cool passenger foot well plate from MX-5 Plus. No idea what brand it is, but it looks useful as it'll give me more space for the MegaSquirt and fuse/relay panel.
Made a decision to get rid of the of standard coil/ignitors and go with the very popular "Toyota COPs". Coil-On-Plugs provide a much better spark as well as giving me sequential spark with the MegaSquirt.
I've been slowly building my MegaSquirt DIYPNP ECU, just wanted to take my time so I don't screw anything up. I have configured to be run on a standard engine with MAF removed, just so I can learn how to tune the basemap. This means standard narrow-band O2 sensor, stock TPS, etc...
All instructions can be found in the links below:
Build photos after the break =)
Ordered my ECU from DIYAutoTune.com last week and it arrived today, will start building it ASAP and get it running on the stock engine. Should be able to get some practise tuning the ECU before I get time to install the ITB setup.
The DIYPNP ECU is based on the MegaSquirt Micro Module V2.2, doesn't have as many features as the MS3 but still provides a lot of tuneability and options. Definitely more then enough for a ITB intake setup.
Some quick photos before I start assembling.
This weekend we tackled the wiring harness.
The MX-5's engine and body wiring is pretty much one single harness, a huge pain in the ass if you just want to remove the ECU and engine harness. While the harness was out we decided to remove all unnecessary wiring, doesn't have to be done but sure makes for a neater harness. Was a big task ahead of us...
Started off by removing any clips and disconnecting the harness, removing the after-market alarm/immobiliser, and then the blower/heater/air-con boxes.