omgpham…
15Jul/120

ITB Build – Part 2

Some more progress today 😀

Had a friend come over to help strip out the interior since my cracked dash and ripped carpet will be getting replaced. Also makes it easier to get out the old wiring harness. Enjoy the madness below, sorry for the lack of photos.


Seats and center console out.


Steering column dropped and dash completely out.


Everything nearly out, just need some more free time to get the wiring harness out.

14Jul/122

ITB Build – Part 1

FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!

Started pulling apart my car today, the head is being removed so I can get that ported. The AC, all wiring, intake, strut brace and fuse box will be removed to make way for my custom tucked wiring harness.

I was planning to port it myself but have decided to send it down to Warren Heath Performance down in Melbourne. The head will received an extensive porting job as well as larger oversized valves, stronger valve springs and re-shimmed solid lifters. The camshaft going in will be 280degree duration and 10.5mm lift.

Didn't get too much done today but photos below.


The operating table where most of the work will be done.



Bonnet off, radiator out and headers moved aside.



Valve cover off to remove the head, full port job on the way with massive cams going in.



The AC condenser removed and a pile of parts that won't be going back in.


That's all for today, covered up and put to bed.

8Jul/120

More Parts & No Progress

Blehhh not much progress lately, BUT I have acquired some more bits for the build. Also been talking with a few guys who are also doing the same ITBs and we've found a few more issues with the T3 manifold... The issue is that the TPS is located towards the firewall and hits against the clutch master hard-line. This is not an issue for all the US guys who have the clutch master on the other side of the engine bay (LHD).


So that's the problem... there are possibly two ways to get around this.


So this is a solution that I'm going to test out, it involves taking 12mm off the end and machining the surface flat. So now I can use a banjo fitting that will let me clear the TPS.


The other solution is to use a braided hose like above, not sure if it'll clear the TPS though. Will figure it out when everything else goes into the car.

So when I installed my new KG Works cluster I forgot to mention that my gauge hood also cracked. Was a pain in the ass but I was able to find a brand new genuine replacement :D. Apparently it was the last one in Australia too! Mazda have more on back order I believe.


So it looks amazing! It does't have the shiny finish like my old one but has a more smooth matte look. Will install this later on when I get a new dash to replace my cracked one.

The next part I found is a duct that is used in cars that don't have air-conditioning from factory. Since I'm removing my AC this part is perfect so that I can remove the ENTIRE AC system and still have functional air/heater.


Wasn't able to get a brand new one but Richard at MX-5 Plus was able to hook me up with this used part. Would prefer a new one but this is pretty decent.

24Jun/120

ITB Test Install

My new fuel rail finally arrived, had to replace the M-Tuned rail because it had clearance issues with the fuel rail bracket. And I was able to get myself a B6 cylinder head for free. This allows me to test fit all the parts and I can work on the fuel lines and wiring while my NB6 head is away for porting and cams.

Also did a quick test fit of the ITBs to see if there are any issues that need to be sorted out.


28May/122

ITB Update

In my previous update I posted up about reassembling my ITBs. I had to use new screws to hold the throttle plates as the old ones were drilled out, they were replaced with socket cap screws but I was recommended to use something with a smaller profile head. I've now replaced the screws with button head socket screws.


The screws were also cut down so not much thread was left sticking out on the other side.

Spent some time over the weekend dialing up the ITB adjustment screws, still a few things to sort out and hopefully they won't cause issues down the track.



Stupid little adjusting screws, very tedious!


Finally received my FPR adapter piece for the M-Tunes fuel rail.


Gave the foot-well plate a good clean.

25May/120

ITB Glamour Shots

Enjoy 😀




25May/120

ITB Assembly

The enamel paint on the ITBs finally dried, didn't air dry in 7-days like the instructions said. And I actually had it in the oven for a total of 12-hours at 60degrees. That was annoying...

Anyway, I had some time today so I went for a drive in search for new throttle plate screws. The factory screws are M3 which are "mushroomed" from factory to stop them from ever backing out. I drilled these out so I could pull apart the throttle bodies for sand-blasting and paint. Checkout the photos here - http://omgpham.com/itb-strip-clean.

Follow on after the break to check out more photos.

Read more after the break...

13May/122

ITBs muhahaha

So I'm still waiting for the paint to dry on the ITBs, going to be a long 7- days... But I couldn't wait so I did a dummy fit of the trumpets (velocity stacks) on the ITBs.

I'm so WET with excitement!


23Apr/1210

Murdered Out

Decided I'm going to save up and get my head ported/machined as well as throwing in some billet cam shafts. So ITBs will be gathering more dust while I save up for the head work...


Most of the ITB bits... all billet aluminium and murdered out 😀

19Apr/122

ITB Strip & Clean

So my AE101 Toyota ITBs are filthy, full of grime and covered in weird corrosion stuff. I can't mentally install them without giving them a "refresh". I initially attempted to clean them by hand but to no avail, so I decided to get them professionally sand blasted.


The dirty yuk throttle bodies.



The screws holding the butterfly in are secured from factory by "mushrooming" the ends of the thread, this effectively prevents the screwd from backing out and getting into your engine. So I've had to drill out the screws to disassemble.


I then cleaned the butterflies as well as the insides of the throttle bodies, easily enough with some elbow grease a scotch-brite pad.



Because the throttle bodies use ball-bearings and seals for the main shaft, I had to tape off all openings before I take them to the sand blaster.



All the parts prepped and sorted out so I don't misplace anything, hopefully get a chance to drop it off to the sand blaster next week.