Some more progress today 😀
Had a friend come over to help strip out the interior since my cracked dash and ripped carpet will be getting replaced. Also makes it easier to get out the old wiring harness. Enjoy the madness below, sorry for the lack of photos.
Started pulling apart my car today, the head is being removed so I can get that ported. The AC, all wiring, intake, strut brace and fuse box will be removed to make way for my custom tucked wiring harness.
I was planning to port it myself but have decided to send it down to Warren Heath Performance down in Melbourne. The head will received an extensive porting job as well as larger oversized valves, stronger valve springs and re-shimmed solid lifters. The camshaft going in will be 280degree duration and 10.5mm lift.
Didn't get too much done today but photos below.
Blehhh not much progress lately, BUT I have acquired some more bits for the build. Also been talking with a few guys who are also doing the same ITBs and we've found a few more issues with the T3 manifold... The issue is that the TPS is located towards the firewall and hits against the clutch master hard-line. This is not an issue for all the US guys who have the clutch master on the other side of the engine bay (LHD).
So when I installed my new KG Works cluster I forgot to mention that my gauge hood also cracked. Was a pain in the ass but I was able to find a brand new genuine replacement :D. Apparently it was the last one in Australia too! Mazda have more on back order I believe.
The next part I found is a duct that is used in cars that don't have air-conditioning from factory. Since I'm removing my AC this part is perfect so that I can remove the ENTIRE AC system and still have functional air/heater.
Wasn't able to get a brand new one but Richard at MX-5 Plus was able to hook me up with this used part. Would prefer a new one but this is pretty decent.
My new fuel rail finally arrived, had to replace the M-Tuned rail because it had clearance issues with the fuel rail bracket. And I was able to get myself a B6 cylinder head for free. This allows me to test fit all the parts and I can work on the fuel lines and wiring while my NB6 head is away for porting and cams.
Also did a quick test fit of the ITBs to see if there are any issues that need to be sorted out.
So I'm still waiting for the paint to dry on the ITBs, going to be a long 7- days... But I couldn't wait so I did a dummy fit of the trumpets (velocity stacks) on the ITBs.
I'm so WET with excitement!
My ITBs were pretty dirty so I had them sent out to Chilton Engineering for some sand-blasting, got it all back today and they came out great! It was also recommended that I give the ITBs a coat of paint to keep them clean.
I picked up some VHT Primer Coat and Quick Coat in the aluminium finish, was considering painting them black but decided against it. Some clean silver aluminium will look spiffy in between the black adapter and velocity stacks.
Follow on after the break for my write-up and photos.
Decided I'm going to save up and get my head ported/machined as well as throwing in some billet cam shafts. So ITBs will be gathering more dust while I save up for the head work...
So my AE101 Toyota ITBs are filthy, full of grime and covered in weird corrosion stuff. I can't mentally install them without giving them a "refresh". I initially attempted to clean them by hand but to no avail, so I decided to get them professionally sand blasted.
The screws holding the butterfly in are secured from factory by "mushrooming" the ends of the thread, this effectively prevents the screwd from backing out and getting into your engine. So I've had to drill out the screws to disassemble.
I've been a slacker... I've had my ITB parts for months now and yet to install them. Well today I've started pulling the AE101 ITBs apart to clean and possibly paint. I also took the adapter plate to Chilton Engineering, can never recommend them enough, and had them check it over to make sure everything was flat. Unfortunately, the side that bolts to the head wasn't very flat at all. This was concerning because there are water outlet/inlets on that side of the head and I didn't want to risk water leaking into the intake.
Photos below of the amazing looking adapter and the re-surface that Chilton did for me.
So over the holidays I put some money down on a few parts for the car, will make for some great New Years Resolutions =)
Found a brand new ITB kit "second hand" off a forum, was able to get it at a very good price so I'm going to try do a budget build. Kit came with the Garage Star/Techno Toy Tuning (T3) adapter plate (black), Toyota AE101 throttle bodies, fuel rail mount, velocity stacks (black), air filters, vacuum block, Toyota TPS and various gaskets.
I've also got myself a Megasquirt DIYPNP ECU for tuning purposes, will assemble this ASAP and get running with the car as is. Will need other parts too like a new fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, wideband O2 sensor and synchrometer to sync the throttle bodies.
ITBs will improve engine response, emit evil noises from the engine bay as well as a small jump in power. My initial goal is to have fun building/tuning the engine, but long term is to gain more power with cams, head port/polish (and maybe other expensive stuff!).
Some good info here:
What it'll roughly look like when done: