In my previous update I posted up about reassembling my ITBs. I had to use new screws to hold the throttle plates as the old ones were drilled out, they were replaced with socket cap screws but I was recommended to use something with a smaller profile head. I've now replaced the screws with button head socket screws.
Spent some time over the weekend dialing up the ITB adjustment screws, still a few things to sort out and hopefully they won't cause issues down the track.
The enamel paint on the ITBs finally dried, didn't air dry in 7-days like the instructions said. And I actually had it in the oven for a total of 12-hours at 60degrees. That was annoying...
Anyway, I had some time today so I went for a drive in search for new throttle plate screws. The factory screws are M3 which are "mushroomed" from factory to stop them from ever backing out. I drilled these out so I could pull apart the throttle bodies for sand-blasting and paint. Checkout the photos here - http://omgpham.com/itb-strip-clean.
Follow on after the break to check out more photos.
Well word got out that I was in possession of an amazing device (Synchometer), so Ian dropped by with his Daihatsu Mira Van to sync his ITBs. I've never used a Synchometer or played with ITBs before so it was a good experience.
It's a slightly tedious process because adjustments on one throttle body will affect the others, so it can take a few goes to get it right. Once the ITBs are synced though, the idle speed needs to be adjusted too, with Ian's car the idle ended up being higher.
I picked up a Synchrometer from a local Motorsport business, Dirt Devil Ind., just located 30mins from Brisbane. It's used to tune/sync ITBs or carburetors for a smoother idle and acceleration. It's not really necessary but why not hey?
It works by measuring air flow through the trumpet (velocity stacks). The synchrometer has a tapered rubber tip that inserts into the ITB opening, than using the bypass adjust screw to set each throttle body for the right amount of air flow at idle.
So I'm still waiting for the paint to dry on the ITBs, going to be a long 7- days... But I couldn't wait so I did a dummy fit of the trumpets (velocity stacks) on the ITBs.
I'm so WET with excitement!
My ITBs were pretty dirty so I had them sent out to Chilton Engineering for some sand-blasting, got it all back today and they came out great! It was also recommended that I give the ITBs a coat of paint to keep them clean.
I picked up some VHT Primer Coat and Quick Coat in the aluminium finish, was considering painting them black but decided against it. Some clean silver aluminium will look spiffy in between the black adapter and velocity stacks.
Follow on after the break for my write-up and photos.
Decided I'm going to save up and get my head ported/machined as well as throwing in some billet cam shafts. So ITBs will be gathering more dust while I save up for the head work...
So my AE101 Toyota ITBs are filthy, full of grime and covered in weird corrosion stuff. I can't mentally install them without giving them a "refresh". I initially attempted to clean them by hand but to no avail, so I decided to get them professionally sand blasted.
The screws holding the butterfly in are secured from factory by "mushrooming" the ends of the thread, this effectively prevents the screwd from backing out and getting into your engine. So I've had to drill out the screws to disassemble.
I've been a slacker... I've had my ITB parts for months now and yet to install them. Well today I've started pulling the AE101 ITBs apart to clean and possibly paint. I also took the adapter plate to Chilton Engineering, can never recommend them enough, and had them check it over to make sure everything was flat. Unfortunately, the side that bolts to the head wasn't very flat at all. This was concerning because there are water outlet/inlets on that side of the head and I didn't want to risk water leaking into the intake.
Photos below of the amazing looking adapter and the re-surface that Chilton did for me.