Received some feedback and discussion on my head-unit relocation last week, and as I often find, I decided to change it up to the better option.
Below are photos of where the head-unit was mounted, I made a custom MDF piece for that spot too.
But it was obvious that the better position would be in the other corner of the boot, and mounted from above. Overall it looks a lot cleaner and more out of the way.
Started off by half removing some of the rear carpet, I than removed the bottom four bolts of the rear parcel shelf cover. Made it a lot easier to run the harness.
Harness fed through and the head-unit case mounted up!
Everything mounted and connected, works just as well as before.
I decided I didn't really enjoy the tablet install, so this will now be the 3rd revision of the MX-5's audio setup.
Goal was to create an even simpler interior, might even delete the AFR gauge, by relocating the head unit into the boot/trunk. I still wanted to retain full audio controls as well as Bluetooth and USB connectivity. My old audio setup worked well but the sound wasn't the greatest, probably from the lack of pre-amp/equiliser control.
Although I planned to mount the head unit in the boot, I still wanted full control of the unit, this was achieved using an IR repeater. Normally used in home theatre setups. Simply have the repeater eye in the cabin, and the repeater transmitter in the boot with the head unit.
First thing was to make up an extension harness that goes from behind the tombstone and into the boot. I used roughly 5 meters worth, and I went with something more flexible, conductor is 38/0.15 strands. And I've just terminated the ends with connectors.
Pictured below is the IR receiver unit, I've mounted this just above the rear view mirror. The harness was plugged up, and you can also see the little USB power adapter that's powering the IR Repeater.
This is where the head unit will be mounted in the boot. I've made a cardboard template for that little spot and will make it out of marine plywood and covered in automotive carpeting. You can also see the IR transmitter double sided tape right in front of the head unit's IR receiver, and the right angle USB extension cable.
The completed setup, showing how much simpler it is now. The other end of the USB extension sits in between the driver and passenger seat, and the remote control has some double sided velcro to keep it easily accessible.
This project has been on the back burner for awhile, but finally ready for testing. Everything hasn't gone exactly to plan, so far the circuit only works with the factory switches and not my Centre Console Delete Kit.
The plan is to make a simple plug-and-play kit that allows both windows to go up/down automatically. I realise that the JDM NA8s came with automatic driver side window from factory, and I will be making kits available for single window applications as well as both windows.
Quick demo video here:
Ignore my slow windows, the sliders need a clean 😛
One click initiates automatic up/down, clicking the switch in opposite direction stops the automatic function. Holding the switch for 2secs overrides into manual mode.
This is the little circuit, will be cased up etc when done.
Testing in my car 🙂
Small updates are small.
Had a day off this Sunday so I was able to install the oil pump, rear cover and both front/rear seals. The oil pump was packed with Vaseline, apparently it's an old trick that gives the pump oil pressure on first crank.
If you plan on deleting the AC like I have, make sure you replace the long AC bracket bolt with a shorter M8x1.25 45mm bolt. It's one of the five bolts that hold the oil pump to the block! I bought mine from a local nut/bolt shop.
I've also started masking up my sump, as I'm looking into getting it powder coated. Getting quotes tomorrow 🙂
Some Mazda parts arrived today! Means I can finish off the bottom end build very soon =)
I recently ordered some blade style circuit breakers from Narva, actually got the idea from a site I visit frequently:
Just installed them tonight, and I'll report back with how reliable they are. They're basically just like a regular fuses except you don't need to replace them. If a fuse blows, you just simply reset it after diagnosing the problem.
Old fuses that will be replaced.
New circuit breakers in, just waiting for the 5A one because it wasn't in stock.
I got my block back from Chilton Engineering this week. They are always my first choice when it comes with engine machining work, can't recommend them enough.
David and his team carried out the following work:
- Measure and hone cylinder bores
- Deck the block
- Remove and replace oil gallery plugs
- Clean oil ways
- Supply and fit welch plugs
- Measure and cleaning of pistons
- Remove balls in crankshaft and replace with screw in plugs
- Crack detect crankshaft
- Check and linish crankshaft
- Block hot washed
- Supply of new rings and bearings
Like last time, the block was wire brushed to get any loose bits off. Fortunately, the block was acid/hot washed by the machine shop so didn't have to clean as much 🙂
I found that one can of VHT Engine Primer was enough to paint my whole block, I went with gloss black.
I also disassembled my oil pump to give it a once over and make sure everything was within tolerances.
Just a quick update, I've installed a boot light and it's amazing! Please excuse the image quality, they were all taken using my phone.
Install doesn't take very long and everything is plug-and-play. Kit comes with a LED mounted on a stainless steel bracket, boot switch and wiring harness.
Boot Light Kit - http://omgpham.com/store/interior/boot-light-kit
Photo taken without flash at 9PM.
I also removed my tombstone to give it a quick coat of Plasti-Dip, the surface was a bit too rubbery/grippy for my liking so I gave it a quick wipe with some interior detailing products. Worked out very well 🙂
Long time no post!
This has been a long over-due service item, valve clearances. Because it's a brand new head build, the clearances have to be checked roughly at the 5000km mark.
This forum thread below was very helpful.
But I was too lazy to pull everything apart to remove the camshafts, so I ordered the Mazda special service tool for this 😀 It basically let's you remove the shims with camshafts still in.
Mazda part number is 49T0-12-0A0A.
Using my feeler gauge to measure all the clearances first, best to record everything as well. A couple of simple calculations are done to find what shims are required to get the clearances within spec.
Tool bolted in and setup.
Bucket pushed down, shim out so it could be checked and measured. This one is 4.00mm.
More progress today!
Picked up all my Aeroflow fuel fittings from Race Car Engineering. Fittings are all push lock style, black and -6AN size. Thanks to the guys at Auto Xperts for supplying the hose, looks OEM and I prefer it over the black braided stuff I bought earlier.
For extra security hose clamps were also used.
Hoses completed and installed!