Update time! Head isn't finished yet so I've been doing a few odd jobs here and there.
One thing I did was start on the brake prop valve relocation. It's not necessary but does give me extra space for the velocity stacks, might be able to increase it's length later down the track too. So I picked up some angle aluminium plate for $5 and started cutting that up.
Here is the capacitor used for the COPs install, it's needed because the battery is in the boot and can cause voltage drops when the coils fire. The capacitor helps by storing a reserve of power and eliminates any voltage drop. Well that's what I think it does =P
Ordered these velocity stack booties from Outerwears, quality seems good but I'm not 100% sure they will provide enough filtering. So might experiment with some foam as well.
This is a going to be a big-ish update, lots of photos, so please click through to see the rest of the post.
I spent the last couple of days building my custom fuse/relay panel. I've been looking forward to this part of the build 😀
Some more progress today 😀
Had a friend come over to help strip out the interior since my cracked dash and ripped carpet will be getting replaced. Also makes it easier to get out the old wiring harness. Enjoy the madness below, sorry for the lack of photos.
Started pulling apart my car today, the head is being removed so I can get that ported. The AC, all wiring, intake, strut brace and fuse box will be removed to make way for my custom tucked wiring harness.
I was planning to port it myself but have decided to send it down to Warren Heath Performance down in Melbourne. The head will received an extensive porting job as well as larger oversized valves, stronger valve springs and re-shimmed solid lifters. The camshaft going in will be 280degree duration and 10.5mm lift.
Didn't get too much done today but photos below.
Fortunately I was able to find the part numbers for new parts, all sourced locally from RS Components too! All parts are manufactured by Tyco/AMP and the part numbers are below:
- Small Terminals : 173716-1
- Larger Terminals : 173631-1
- 26-way Connector : 174516-1
- 22-way Connector : 174515-1
Small update... some wiring parts arrived and picked up a white board to help me scribble down wiring stuff. It's been pretty handy 😀
According to the MegaSquirt manual, it's a pretty good idea to shield the TPS and trigger wires. So have been on the search for a flexible 2-core shielded cable, ended up deciding on a microphone cable from JayCar (part no. WB1530).
Terminated the shielding into it's own BLACK wire, this will grounded at the ECU end and left floating on the sensor end. The BLUE wire will be used for sensor return and the WHITE for sensor ground. The +5V/+12V wire will be run externally to the shield.
Not much has been happening but some updates for the build so far.
I received my first batch of Brake Cylinder Braces, so took some photos of what it looks like installed. It's too hard to take photos of the install, so will be doing it on a bare chassis in a few weeks.
I've also decided to ditch the old style CAS and go with dedicated crank and cam angle sensors. They're used in later model BP4W engines as well as NB6 engines.
Started my ECU harness too. Re-used the ECU connectors and just de-pinned the terminals so I could solder new wires on. Was a tedious process but well worth it, sensors/injectors/coils connectors will be installed later.
Picked up this cool passenger foot well plate from MX-5 Plus. No idea what brand it is, but it looks useful as it'll give me more space for the MegaSquirt and fuse/relay panel.
Made a decision to get rid of the of standard coil/ignitors and go with the very popular "Toyota COPs". Coil-On-Plugs provide a much better spark as well as giving me sequential spark with the MegaSquirt.
I've been slowly building my MegaSquirt DIYPNP ECU, just wanted to take my time so I don't screw anything up. I have configured to be run on a standard engine with MAF removed, just so I can learn how to tune the basemap. This means standard narrow-band O2 sensor, stock TPS, etc...
All instructions can be found in the links below:
Build photos after the break =)
Ordered my ECU from DIYAutoTune.com last week and it arrived today, will start building it ASAP and get it running on the stock engine. Should be able to get some practise tuning the ECU before I get time to install the ITB setup.
The DIYPNP ECU is based on the MegaSquirt Micro Module V2.2, doesn't have as many features as the MS3 but still provides a lot of tuneability and options. Definitely more then enough for a ITB intake setup.
Some quick photos before I start assembling.
So over the holidays I put some money down on a few parts for the car, will make for some great New Years Resolutions =)
Found a brand new ITB kit "second hand" off a forum, was able to get it at a very good price so I'm going to try do a budget build. Kit came with the Garage Star/Techno Toy Tuning (T3) adapter plate (black), Toyota AE101 throttle bodies, fuel rail mount, velocity stacks (black), air filters, vacuum block, Toyota TPS and various gaskets.
I've also got myself a Megasquirt DIYPNP ECU for tuning purposes, will assemble this ASAP and get running with the car as is. Will need other parts too like a new fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, wideband O2 sensor and synchrometer to sync the throttle bodies.
ITBs will improve engine response, emit evil noises from the engine bay as well as a small jump in power. My initial goal is to have fun building/tuning the engine, but long term is to gain more power with cams, head port/polish (and maybe other expensive stuff!).
Some good info here:
What it'll roughly look like when done: