Received some feedback and discussion on my head-unit relocation last week, and as I often find, I decided to change it up to the better option.
Below are photos of where the head-unit was mounted, I made a custom MDF piece for that spot too.
But it was obvious that the better position would be in the other corner of the boot, and mounted from above. Overall it looks a lot cleaner and more out of the way.
Started off by half removing some of the rear carpet, I than removed the bottom four bolts of the rear parcel shelf cover. Made it a lot easier to run the harness.
Harness fed through and the head-unit case mounted up!
Everything mounted and connected, works just as well as before.
I decided I didn't really enjoy the tablet install, so this will now be the 3rd revision of the MX-5's audio setup.
Goal was to create an even simpler interior, might even delete the AFR gauge, by relocating the head unit into the boot/trunk. I still wanted to retain full audio controls as well as Bluetooth and USB connectivity. My old audio setup worked well but the sound wasn't the greatest, probably from the lack of pre-amp/equiliser control.
Although I planned to mount the head unit in the boot, I still wanted full control of the unit, this was achieved using an IR repeater. Normally used in home theatre setups. Simply have the repeater eye in the cabin, and the repeater transmitter in the boot with the head unit.
First thing was to make up an extension harness that goes from behind the tombstone and into the boot. I used roughly 5 meters worth, and I went with something more flexible, conductor is 38/0.15 strands. And I've just terminated the ends with connectors.
Pictured below is the IR receiver unit, I've mounted this just above the rear view mirror. The harness was plugged up, and you can also see the little USB power adapter that's powering the IR Repeater.
This is where the head unit will be mounted in the boot. I've made a cardboard template for that little spot and will make it out of marine plywood and covered in automotive carpeting. You can also see the IR transmitter double sided tape right in front of the head unit's IR receiver, and the right angle USB extension cable.
The completed setup, showing how much simpler it is now. The other end of the USB extension sits in between the driver and passenger seat, and the remote control has some double sided velcro to keep it easily accessible.
This project has been on the back burner for awhile, but finally ready for testing. Everything hasn't gone exactly to plan, so far the circuit only works with the factory switches and not my Centre Console Delete Kit.
The plan is to make a simple plug-and-play kit that allows both windows to go up/down automatically. I realise that the JDM NA8s came with automatic driver side window from factory, and I will be making kits available for single window applications as well as both windows.
Quick demo video here:
Ignore my slow windows, the sliders need a clean 😛
One click initiates automatic up/down, clicking the switch in opposite direction stops the automatic function. Holding the switch for 2secs overrides into manual mode.
This is the little circuit, will be cased up etc when done.
Testing in my car 🙂
Small update before the MX-5 goes off the road for some changes 🙂
I present to you the Jass Performance Wiper Cowl Panel! (Now available in our store.)
It's an amazing looking pieces of gear, CNC laser cut from stainless steel and available in brushed or polished finishes. It features vents in the centre and both sides to keep a constant flow of fresh air to your interior. The kit comes with all stainless hardware and maintains the factory rubber seal.
First part is to assemble the panel, the panel is a 2-piece design. Use the four stainless cap head bolts and nuts to do this.
When you've removed the factory rubber seal, it's time to replace those plastic clips with the supplied stainless steel M3 bolts.
Next up, place the assembled panel into the car. The passenger side bolt needs a spacer.
Small updates are small.
Had a day off this Sunday so I was able to install the oil pump, rear cover and both front/rear seals. The oil pump was packed with Vaseline, apparently it's an old trick that gives the pump oil pressure on first crank.
If you plan on deleting the AC like I have, make sure you replace the long AC bracket bolt with a shorter M8x1.25 45mm bolt. It's one of the five bolts that hold the oil pump to the block! I bought mine from a local nut/bolt shop.
I've also started masking up my sump, as I'm looking into getting it powder coated. Getting quotes tomorrow 🙂
Some Mazda parts arrived today! Means I can finish off the bottom end build very soon =)
I recently ordered some blade style circuit breakers from Narva, actually got the idea from a site I visit frequently:
Just installed them tonight, and I'll report back with how reliable they are. They're basically just like a regular fuses except you don't need to replace them. If a fuse blows, you just simply reset it after diagnosing the problem.
Old fuses that will be replaced.
New circuit breakers in, just waiting for the 5A one because it wasn't in stock.
Over the last couple of days I've been able to install the pistons back into the block =)
Because this rebuild is a learning process for me, I choose to re-use the old pistons. Everything is pretty much standard.
Stock pistons being re-used as they all measured spot on.
The oil expansion and both rail rings installed. Very easy to do , just make sure to use a lot of oil to lubricate everything.
Upper and lower rings installed, again very easy to install. Just make sure you use a ring spreading tool. The rings need to be clocked into their correct orientation too. I'll try upload some images from the service manual a bit later on.
Once rings are on, oil everything up again. Than it's time for the ring compressor to do it's thing. This part was a little nerve racking as a first time engine builder, but I'm confident it went well.
AND DONE!!! For now...
Previous info on the build:
We've finally started doing more work on my friends SR20DET MX-5 build! Very excited about the progress today, next week we'll be replacing the NA dash with a NB one. Everything bolts straight in but wiring has to be modified.
Interior stripped out, NB carpet cleaned up and going into the NA shell.
Next up was the main body wiring harness, this was previously stripped back and modified. This includes a proper relocation of the engine bay fuse box, cleaned up engine bay wiring, and separating the factory combined engine and body wiring.
After I gave the paint some time to dry, it was time to give the internals a wash down. For this I was advised to use dish washing liquid with water, once that was done everything was given a wipe with engine oil to prevent any surface oxidisation.
The crank journals were given a good clean and main bearings installed.
Before the crank can be installed, the clearances need to be checked using Plastigauge.
Once you have the clearances checked and within recommended specifications, it's time to pull it apart, clean and than re-fit using assembly lube.
In the next episode, I hope to have updates on the ring gaps and final assembly =).