This project has been on the back burner for awhile, but finally ready for testing. Everything hasn't gone exactly to plan, so far the circuit only works with the factory switches and not my Centre Console Delete Kit.
The plan is to make a simple plug-and-play kit that allows both windows to go up/down automatically. I realise that the JDM NA8s came with automatic driver side window from factory, and I will be making kits available for single window applications as well as both windows.
Quick demo video here:
Ignore my slow windows, the sliders need a clean 😛
One click initiates automatic up/down, clicking the switch in opposite direction stops the automatic function. Holding the switch for 2secs overrides into manual mode.
This is the little circuit, will be cased up etc when done.
Testing in my car 🙂
Small update before the MX-5 goes off the road for some changes 🙂
I present to you the Jass Performance Wiper Cowl Panel! (Now available in our store.)
It's an amazing looking pieces of gear, CNC laser cut from stainless steel and available in brushed or polished finishes. It features vents in the centre and both sides to keep a constant flow of fresh air to your interior. The kit comes with all stainless hardware and maintains the factory rubber seal.
First part is to assemble the panel, the panel is a 2-piece design. Use the four stainless cap head bolts and nuts to do this.
When you've removed the factory rubber seal, it's time to replace those plastic clips with the supplied stainless steel M3 bolts.
Next up, place the assembled panel into the car. The passenger side bolt needs a spacer.
Small updates are small.
Had a day off this Sunday so I was able to install the oil pump, rear cover and both front/rear seals. The oil pump was packed with Vaseline, apparently it's an old trick that gives the pump oil pressure on first crank.
If you plan on deleting the AC like I have, make sure you replace the long AC bracket bolt with a shorter M8x1.25 45mm bolt. It's one of the five bolts that hold the oil pump to the block! I bought mine from a local nut/bolt shop.
I've also started masking up my sump, as I'm looking into getting it powder coated. Getting quotes tomorrow 🙂
Some Mazda parts arrived today! Means I can finish off the bottom end build very soon =)
I recently ordered some blade style circuit breakers from Narva, actually got the idea from a site I visit frequently:
Just installed them tonight, and I'll report back with how reliable they are. They're basically just like a regular fuses except you don't need to replace them. If a fuse blows, you just simply reset it after diagnosing the problem.
Old fuses that will be replaced.
New circuit breakers in, just waiting for the 5A one because it wasn't in stock.
Over the last couple of days I've been able to install the pistons back into the block =)
Because this rebuild is a learning process for me, I choose to re-use the old pistons. Everything is pretty much standard.
Stock pistons being re-used as they all measured spot on.
The oil expansion and both rail rings installed. Very easy to do , just make sure to use a lot of oil to lubricate everything.
Upper and lower rings installed, again very easy to install. Just make sure you use a ring spreading tool. The rings need to be clocked into their correct orientation too. I'll try upload some images from the service manual a bit later on.
Once rings are on, oil everything up again. Than it's time for the ring compressor to do it's thing. This part was a little nerve racking as a first time engine builder, but I'm confident it went well.
AND DONE!!! For now...
Previous info on the build:
We've finally started doing more work on my friends SR20DET MX-5 build! Very excited about the progress today, next week we'll be replacing the NA dash with a NB one. Everything bolts straight in but wiring has to be modified.
Interior stripped out, NB carpet cleaned up and going into the NA shell.
Next up was the main body wiring harness, this was previously stripped back and modified. This includes a proper relocation of the engine bay fuse box, cleaned up engine bay wiring, and separating the factory combined engine and body wiring.
After I gave the paint some time to dry, it was time to give the internals a wash down. For this I was advised to use dish washing liquid with water, once that was done everything was given a wipe with engine oil to prevent any surface oxidisation.
The crank journals were given a good clean and main bearings installed.
Before the crank can be installed, the clearances need to be checked using Plastigauge.
Once you have the clearances checked and within recommended specifications, it's time to pull it apart, clean and than re-fit using assembly lube.
In the next episode, I hope to have updates on the ring gaps and final assembly =).
I got my block back from Chilton Engineering this week. They are always my first choice when it comes with engine machining work, can't recommend them enough.
David and his team carried out the following work:
- Measure and hone cylinder bores
- Deck the block
- Remove and replace oil gallery plugs
- Clean oil ways
- Supply and fit welch plugs
- Measure and cleaning of pistons
- Remove balls in crankshaft and replace with screw in plugs
- Crack detect crankshaft
- Check and linish crankshaft
- Block hot washed
- Supply of new rings and bearings
Like last time, the block was wire brushed to get any loose bits off. Fortunately, the block was acid/hot washed by the machine shop so didn't have to clean as much 🙂
I found that one can of VHT Engine Primer was enough to paint my whole block, I went with gloss black.
I also disassembled my oil pump to give it a once over and make sure everything was within tolerances.
My goal has always been to build my bottom end, forged high compression pistons, forged rods and maybe a decent over-bore. As everything with my car, I would prefer to learn and do it myself. So this rebuild is more of a refresh using stock pistons and rods, a learning exercise/practice before I attempt the forged build.
So over the last week I've been slowly pulling apart my spare block, getting it ready for the machine shop. I'm also wire brushing and prepping the block for a fresh coat of paint.
Pulled the head and sump off, and quickly checked the side-to-side clearances, crank thrust and bearing clearances.
Everything out and ready for the machine shop.