ITB Build – Part 13


So big update! I finally got my built head 😀

Final specs:

  • 2001 NB6 head
  • Intake camshaft - 280deg 10.5mm lift
  • Exhaust camshaft - 270deg 9.4mm lift
  • Solid lifters
  • Oversized valves
  • Stronger valve springs
  • Fully reconditioned
  • Extensive porting, de-shrouding etc...
  • Port matched

Intake camshaft is a custom billet profile, and the exhaust is a custom regrind.

Haven't had too much time to work on it, but things will move fast next week.

I bolted the intake gasket to the manifold and port matched it using my Dremel, nothing too exciting 😛


Interior Update


Still waiting to get my head back from the engine builder, so no real updates.

One of the perks from organising a group buy of 40 Sparco Sprint V seats... I kept a seat for myself so now my passengers can sit in comfort 😀 also ordered a OMP 330mm deep dish steering wheel that shipped with the seats.

Some seat bolster protectors from MX-5 Mania are on their way too.

Centre Console Delete Kit now available:


Centre Console Update & TSI

Small update!

I finished up my design to relocate the power window switches after deleting the centre console. The switches are automotive grade and will include wiring harness using crimped connections. A revised template for the carpet will also be included and will cover up the tunnel and fuel/boot release levers. The panel is CNC laser cut from 1.6mm thick stainless-steel sheet and all supplied hardware will be stainless-steel too.

Testing so far has been very good, functions like factory (no auto feature), and I find it easier to reach than the factory location for the switches.

Centre Console Delete Kit now available:

Below are some photos of the first prototype.

I now stock TSI kits, Turn Signal Intake. Replaces the factory light assembly, and provides a good source of cold air into the engine bay. The vents have both LED parker and indicator lights.

Not too bad hey!


Centre Console Carpet

Was browsing build threads this morning and spotted someone doing a custom centre console carpet, looked cool so I decided to hack my spare parcel shelf carpet too.

I'm not sure if I want to get a shorty console yet, or just modify the current tombstone so it looks nicer. I'll also have to relocate the window switches.

I first used some cardboard to mock up a pattern.

I then transferred it onto an old pillow case to test out the fitment.

After I made a few adjustments to the pattern, I traced it onto the parcel shelf carpet and cut it out. If you're doing the same, make sure you place the pattern the correct side down.

Pretty happy how it's turned out, will pick up some Velcro (with the double sided tape) and attach it to certain spots so that the carpet sits nice and flat. I'm undecided whether I should get the the carpet edges "binded", might call an upholsterer for a quote.


Andrew’s Ducktail Boot Lid

Andrew literally pulled this out of the box and slapped it onto his car within 5 minutes, just a quick test fit. I think most can agree that it looks insanely good! Andrew's Ducktail Boot Lid is the fibreglass version with black gel-coat.

Can't wait for photos after it's been painted 😀

Fibreglass - $380
Carbon Fibre - $540
Carbon Kevlar - $590


Painting Engine Block

I felt I needed to work on my car this weekend, so I went out and purchased supplies to paint up my block and a few other parts. Nothing like wire wheeling and paint fumes on a Sunday arvo!

First up was to mask the deck and start removing parts from the block.

Prep work is important so I wire wheeled/brushed the old surface. Had to sand a few spots and than everything cleaned up with presol/wax grease remover.

Water pump removed, front of block and sump masked off. Did a few coats of primer.

Than the gloss black coats went on, still needs a few heat cycles to fully cure the paint.

All done!

Also spent some time painting one of the water outlets.

Pulled apart the alternator to paint. Wire brushed and cleaned with prepsol.

The finished parts!


Low-Profile Headlight Install

This is a install walk-through of the Low-Profile Headlight Kit. It's quite straight forward to get everything bolted into the car, but it does take a bit of time to make minor adjustments so that both headlights are level with each other.

The supplied instructions can be found below, please use it together with this guide:

Before you start, have your headlights popped up than remove the retractor fuse/relay.

1. Remove the factory headlight and it's frame. This consists of 3 small screws, 2 large screws and a spring.

2. Using a pen, outline the brackets holding the headlight lid to the assemble. This will be used as a guide when you re-assemble.

3. Using a 14mm spanner, remove the nut and spring washer that holds the control arm to the retractor motor.

4. Remove the bolts/nuts on both sides of the assembly, this is the pivot point of the headlight assembly.

5. Remove entire headlight assembly from the car.

6. Remove the control arm from the assembly, carefully pry it evenly at the ball joint.

7. Drill two 6mm holes for the new control arm bracket. The position of the bracket is crucial, please refer to the manual for precise location. Make sure they are positioned identical in each headlight assembly.

8. Use one of the original factory screws, slip the supplied washer and spring onto the screw. Attach to the adapter frame and screw into bottom plastic clip.

9. Top holes of the frame are attached to the assembly using the supplied counter-sunk screws, washer, spring and nut.

10. Attach the Hella lense to the frame using the self tapping screws.

11. Loosen the locking nut and remove the factory stopper, install the supplied curved stopper.

12. Re-install the assembly into the car, plug headlight cable back in.

13. Loosen the bottom stopper, set the top stopper temporarily down.

14. With the retractor motor in the UP position, attach the control arm to the retractor motor shaft. Make sure the control arm is as straight as possible and the assembly is in the UP position too. Tighten the nut just enough so that you can do some tests by popping the headlights up and down a few times and make sure that the headlight is lifted to the highest point. Tighten the nut when done.

15. With the headlight up, set the top stopper so it just pushes against the assembly. With the headlights in the down position, set the bottom stopper so it just pushes back against the assembly. In both up/down positions, there should be very little movement, this ensures that the assembly will not bounce around whether the lights are up or down.

16. Repeat the instructions for the other side, and make minor adjustments to ensure both headlight heights are equal.

17. Adjustments are made using the control arm, remove it from the retractor motor shaft to do so. Lengthening the control arm will raise the headlight, shortening the control arm will lower the height.

18. You can now install the headlight lid and the side panels, the outer panel uses 1 short screw towards the back and the front uses a long screw with the supplied plastic spacer. Inner panels uses 2 short screws, the front screw uses a washer as a spacer.

19. Aligning the beam is done using the 2 top screws on the lense housing, black plastic surround. These screws allow adjustments for vertical and horizontal alignment. For any reason you need more vertical alignment, the bottom screw that holds the adapter bracket to the assembly can be adjust to raise/lower the lense.

20. Enjoy your new low-profile headlights!


Testing Coils


Had a chance to try out TunerStudio's "Output Test Mode", basically allows you test fire your injectors and coils. Something I really wanted to do because I wired my coils for sequential fire.

Firing order is 1-3-4-2 so they are wired as such:

  • Cylinder No. 1 - Spark A
  • Cylinder No. 2 - Spark D
  • Cylinder No. 3 - Spark B
  • Cylinder No. 4 - Spark C

I initially wired them in the wrong order but luckily I caught on this error early.

Tried to take a photo of the spark but that nearly impossible so I've uploaded a video below.

I also had a chance to change the transmission front seal and gasket.


ECU Mounting Revisited

So my first attempt for the ECU mount was a failure, it sucked and was messy looking. This next mount attempt is so simple, not sure why I didn't think of it first. Checkout the photos below.

Used my spare dash to plan my bracket, much easier when flipped upside down.

Had some some left over angle aluminium, perfect for the task at hand.

Quickly positioned to make sure it clears everything.

Stickered my ECU because it's so awesome.

Marked all the holes and drilled everything.

Double checking that all the holes lined up.

Done! Very very happy how it turned out, the bracket is strong and holds it at a good position. The glove box closes up fine, still emptied out so no real use but it'll be locked up anyway.


ECU Mounting


I've been dreading this part of the build, was never sure how I would do it and make it neat. But everything is coming together now and so I had to do something.

Because my custom fuse/relay panel sits where the ECU normally goes, I've had to install the ECU in the glove box. It's not a bad spot to put it, just my solution isn't "clean" for my liking.

I had to remove all the internal sides of the glove box, gives much more room for the harness to hook up. I'll also make a short serial cable "pig-tail" so I can hook up the USB connection.

All the studs were epoxied into place, not very clean and not sure if it'll be strong enough. So I might go over everything with some fibreglass, any thoughts?

Test fit was good too, but I'll let it cure overnight before I tighten up the nuts.

I also decided to use the stock tombstone, goes much better with the rest of my interior. So the KG Works tombstone will be up for sale soon.